Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
